Hourly Multiple Swells Wind Highlighting Model. On Wed AM (3/2) a broader gale is to be developing just west of the dateline with 45-50 kt west winds and seas building from 27 ft at 42N 164.5E aimed east. On Thurs AM (5/4) southwest winds to be fading from 35-40 kts with seas 26 ft at 40S 132W aimed northeast. In the evening southwest winds were 50 kts solid over the Central South Pacific with 34 ft seas at 62S 166W aimed east-northeast. Wind waves 2 ft or less. Run in that direction. Not much of a change compared to the last few days in the forecast, maybe even a notch smaller. Buoyweather Marine Weather & Wind Forecasts Widespread Swell on the Way | Southern California Weekly Forecast Oahu: Swell fading on Thurs AM (2/24) from 2.6 ft @ 12 secs early (3.0 ft). The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO and ENSO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for upcoming activity (or inactivity depending on the state and interaction of these two oscillations). The CFS model is on the upper range of all models. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. The south swell will slowly ease Sunday the 8th and into the workweek. Summer - Waist to chest high. Wednesday the 10th, so far, is expected to see SW ground swell building during the day, about chest max at south facing spots. A stronger than expected Active Phase of the MJO in Dec has produced a Kelvin Wave that is plodding east through the Central Pacific. Saturday looks clearer and warmer so far. sgi_tile=1;
SW wind 5 ktbacking to S after midnight. Analysis (TAO Buoys): As of (4/29) 5 day average winds were moderate from the east over the East equatorial Pacific and moderate east over the Central Pacific and moderate east over the KWGA. But a quick fade is forecast as we move into late December 2022 with the CFS predicting a return to a neutral wind anomaly pattern and the low pressure bias making headway in to the KWGA in early Jan. SUN SW wind 10 to 20 kt. Pacific Decadal Oscillation
In the evening 45 kts west winds were pushing east with seas building to 30 ft over a tiny area at 45.5N 157E aimed east and a long ways from Hawaii. Surf along south facing shores will ease today as a south swell that recently peaked moves out. Down south a small gale developed east of New Zealand pushing northeast Thurs-Sat (4/29) producing up to 37 ft seas aimed well north. Mixed swell W 5 to 6 ft and NW 3 ft. Still it will take some time for the atmosphere to fully respond, resulting in a less than normal swell production forecast especially for Fall into early Winter 2022. Weak warming set up over the equator with no cool waters present. stay moderate for the next few days. Tuesday the 2nd is expected to run chest to head high at west facing breaks and waist to chest at south facing spots. A gale developed in the Southwestern Pacific with swell from it fading in California (see Southwestern Pacific Gale below). Sea Level Anomalies: (2/17) Sea heights were neutral over the Equatorial Pacific except one small area of -5 cms anomalies between 95W to 85W and losing coverage quickly. Hawaii's North Shore had sets at waist to maybe chest high and lined up and clean when the sets came with decent form but a little soft. BUOY ROUNDUP
The High Seas Forecast for the South Pacific - National Weather Service National Weather Service Medford, OR. Friday the 5th into Saturday the 6th remains on track to see decent sized southern hemi ground swell from this system that has stayed the course for more than a week on the models, peaking off Antarctica yesterday as it traveled north on an ideal course for SoCal surf (model generated by XyGrib from NFCENS data): Size is coming in at chest high for most south facing breaks and head high at times at standouts by Saturday the 6th (chest max Friday the 5th with rare pluses), angled from 210 with periods 16-18 seconds. Highs around 82 near the shore to 71 to 77 near 3000 feet. If these combine with south swells then Malibu and Trestles will fire whereas places such as Rincon require a more northerly swell. Boston, MA: Eastport, ME to South of New England. That trough is to push east of the Southern CA swell window while fading on Sun (5/7). These therefore have a significant impact on the production of swell and surf. View accurate wind, swell and tide forecasts for any GPS point.
Brookings southward, NW wind 10 to 15 kteasing to 5 to 10 kt the afternoon. Swell Direction:292-295 degrees. LONG-RANGE PACIFIC STORM AND SWELL GENERATION POTENTIAL FORECAST. Wind waves 3 to 5 ft. Another gale is forecast developing in the deep South Central Pacific on Mon PM (5/1) producing 30 kt southwest winds and seas building. Wind waves In the evening northwest winds were fading from 35 kts with seas 27 ft at 39.75N 168E approaching the dateline. Over the next 72 hours a trough is forecast developing over the Central South Pacific on Tues (5/2) being fed by 150 kt winds lifting northeast and then north on Wed (5/3) offering great support for gale development before starting to pinch off on Thurs (5/4) while moving east and out of the Southern CA swell window. The East Shore was thigh high and chopped with moderate east trades.